Did the pigment heal pink or is it actually scar tissue: Understanding and Adjusting Your Techniques

As a permanent makeup artist, encountering pigment retention issues or experiencing pink skin during the procedure can be frustrating. Seeing pink skin rather than pigment can be very frustrating. These challenges often stem from changing up and trying new hand movements, techniques or moving into a new machine or new needle configurations. This blog will help you understand the root causes and provide actionable solutions to improve your results.

Understanding Pink Skin and Pigment Retention Issues

When you observe pink skin during the procedures, this is often times normal for many clients. Skin can be very reactive especially if they have sensitive skin. Although all Fitpatrick and skin types can get pink during a procedure – we tend to see it more often with the lighter skin types due to the lighter skin types being more sensitive and reactive. However, if you are experiencing pink skin more than you normally do – this could be due to a change up in your tools or techniques. Changing to a new machine, needle configuration, hand movement or pigment type require adjustments from the artist, there is a learning curve and can take time to master.

If you are experiencing pink skin rather than pigment once the procedure is healed - it’s important to understand that this is not pigment in most cases; it’s scar tissue. Whenever we break open skin, no matter how shallow, we create scar tissue and that scar tissue is typically red or pink in color. It can even have a lavender hue depending on the undertone of the client. If all or most of the pigment did not hold and fell out during the healing process then the scar tissue created from the procedure will be exposed and seen. Scar tissue coloring can last 3 to 12 months – how long will be different for each individual person. If the pigment did hold and heal in the skin with the right amount of pigment saturation, the pigment will act as a wool blanket and cover up the scar tissue.

Trauma occurs whenever we implant pigment, however excess trauma can occur when applying too much hand pressure, going too deep or spending too long in the skin. This is normal for a new artist starting out and honing their skills. Excess trauma can affect our healed in pigment retention.

Excess trauma and retention issues may also occur with a more seasoned artist when that artist is transitioning between pigment types (e.g., organics vs. inorganics) or adapting to new tools such as a new machines, new needles or hand movements. Let’s break down the key factors and solutions:

1. Technique Matters

• Pressure and Depth: Switching machines or needle sizes requires recalibrating your technique. For example, larger needles like OMG 5RS or 8RS require slightly more hand pressure due to the circumference size of the needle tip which results in increased skin resistance. Smaller needles require less hand pressure. It can take time adjusting your hand pressure between all the different needle sizes until you’re comfortable and you’re achieving the healed in results wanted.  Remember if you go too shallow and little to no pigment holds and heals in the skin – you will see pink or the brows may have a pinkish appearance.
• Saturation: Ensure you’re achieving proper saturation. For inorganics/iron oxides like Aqua pigments, the brows should look about 15- 20% darker than the desired healed result when the client leaves. With organics, once the brows look saturated to your satisfaction, the procedure is complete. It may take some time to develop your eye and knowing when the right level of saturation is accomplished. Remember if you did not saturate the skin enough, the scar tissue can show through the weak pigment, giving the pigment a pink or reddish appearance.

2. Pigment Types: Organics vs. Inorganics

• Iron Oxides/Inorganics (e.g., Aqua): These have slightly larger particle sizes, requiring a bit more pressure and saturation. They heal soft and natural, ideal for clients seeking a subtle look. They do not last as long as organics and how long they last will vary with each client and skin type.
• Organics (e.g., Loaded): These require less pressure. Once they appear saturated, you’re done. Organics heal vibrant and are well-suited for clients who do not have exceptionally cool skin (e.g., very pink or red skin, sun-damaged skin). Organics tend to last longer than inorganics.

Mastering both pigment types allows you to tailor your services to different skin types and client preferences. Some skin types respond better to iron oxides/inorganics, while others are better suited for organics.  So, learning and working with both can give an artist an advantage.  Learning how to fluidly move between inorganic and organic pigments can take time and practice.

3. Machine and Needle Adjustments

Switching machines or needles introduces a learning curve. Adapting your pressure and technique is crucial to achieving optimal results:

• With larger needles, increase your pressure slightly to account for skin resistance.
• Adjust your hand speed and technique when using single needles versus larger configurations like 5RS or 8RS.

How Education Can Help You Excel

Continuous learning is key to improving your skills and addressing challenges like pigment retention or trauma. Here are some resources to help:

• Tatter-A-Fact Podcast: Teryn’s episodes provide free, valuable education to support your growth as an artist. Listen here.  And don’t forget to check out all her Tatter-a-fact episodes as there is loads of information that will be so helpful for you.
• Color Theory Course: Gain a deeper understanding of skin. Dive deep into pigments and how they interact with different skin types. Learn more.
• Needle and the Prick Course: Master the nuances of needles and techniques to enhance your outcomes, work more efferently and reduce your touch-up work. Explore the course.

Final Thoughts

Becoming a versatile artist - learning and taking advantage of all the different pigments types, hand movements, needles and techniques can really level up your skill and artistry. It will allow you to be much more efficient and successful with all the different skin types you work on, including the most challenging. Adjusting your techniques when transitioning between machines, needles, or pigment types is essential to achieving consistent and beautiful results. By understanding the differences between organics and inorganics, recalibrating your pressure, and investing in ongoing education, you can master any challenge that comes your way.

Remember, the journey to becoming a confident, skilled artist is ongoing. Embrace the learning process, and don’t hesitate to reach out for support when you need it. Greatness takes time. You’ve got this!