Mastering Color Theory for Permanent Makeup: Color Theory Wheel
Jul 27, 2024Understanding color theory is essential for anyone entering the permanent makeup industry. At the core of this knowledge is the traditional Color Wheel, which serves as the foundation for choosing, correcting colors in permanent makeup, and helps the PMU artist understand how colors interact, blend and contrast with each other. Knowing the color wheel and color theory shows the relationships between primary colors, secondary, and tertiary colors – but it ultimately determines a large amount of your success as a PMU artist.
Knowledge of color theory is essential to providing quality service to your clients. Whether you have a client with virgin skin or existing permanent makeup – color theory is crucial to your skillset!
You would be surprised at the amount of phone calls and emails we get on a regular basis about choosing the correct pigment for their client, regardless of how many years an artist has been in the industry. Where we are always happy to help the PMU industry – we want to pass on the knowledge and give you the power to understand color theory! It will not just help you with choosing pigments but will allow you to take the guesswork out of your craft!
Here’s a simplified breakdown of the Color Wheel and its application in PMU.
The Color Wheel Basics
Primary Colors:
- Blue
- Red
- Yellow
Secondary Colors: 
- Orange (Yellow + Red)
- Purple (Red + Blue)
- Green (Blue + Yellow)
Tertiary Colors: 
- Yellow-Orange
- Red-Orange
- Red-Purple
- Blue-Purple
- Blue-Green
- Yellow-Green
Complementary Colors
Complementary colors sit directly opposite each other on the Color Wheel. They are crucial in PMU for neutralizing or canceling out other colors. Mixing complementary colors together diminishes their intensity, resulting in a neutral brown. Here are the pairs:
- Yellow and Purple
- Green and Red
- Blue and Orange
Practical Application in PMU
In permanent makeup, complementary colors help choose the right target color and correct flawed pigments. Here’s how they work:
- Yellow: Neutralizes and corrects purple eyebrows and undertones.
- Orange: Neutralizes and corrects blue or gray eyebrows and undertones, balancing cool tones in the skin.
- Green: Neutralizes and corrects pink, red, or orange eyebrows.
- Red: Neutralizes and corrects green eyebrows.
Unique Additions and Exceptions in PMU
In PMU, there are unique nuances beyond the traditional color wheel:
- Gray: Though not on the Color Wheel, it is treated like blue.
- Green: Used to correct orange, pink, and red eyebrows.
- Red-Orange: Preferred over true red to correct green eyebrows.
- Orange and Yellow-Orange: Used for correcting green, depending on the exact tone and intensity.
Resources & Support
As a PMU artist, your dedication to mastering your craft is crucial. Color Theory is an essential component to delivering lasting results for your clients you can be proud of. We’re pride ourselves that we can support you on your journey.
Here are some resources for you to support you to master color theory that takes into your growth in mind. Dive into the intricacies of color theory to help build or refine your skills!
Online Academy Course – Beyond the Epidermis® by Teryn Darling
- This is one of the most comprehensive color theory courses you will ever take on PMU specific color theory.
- Learn about skin, pigment science, pigment color & selection, modifiers, depth, saturation, technique and corrections… all of which directly affect your healed in color results.
- You will have one year access, get a certificate of completion, have access to downloadable course handouts, get access to client consent and aftercare forms, and lifetime support.
Beyond the Epidermis™ - Interactive Reference Guide & Checklists by Teryn Darling
- This physical guide will empower you to understand and determine skin types in person and choose the right colors and/or modifiers for that skin type.
- Great resource to have in your procedure room that you can refer to at any time.
- The guide includes – 64-page interactive guide, laminated color theory poster, laminated color correct poster, laminated color PMU specific color wheel, erasable Beyond the Epidermis™
Girlz Ink Product & Education Facebook Board
- This is an invaluable resource to anyone who needs support with over 10,000 active and supportive members.
- Ask questions to a community that is there to be supportive and uplifting.
- Many artists come on the board and ask color related questions!
- Free resource and most popular PMU podcast with over 75K downloads!
- There are many topics to learn about on this podcast, however – here are some color theory specific podcast snippets to check out!
Girlz Ink Blogs
- Girlz Ink Has a few different homes for blogs, so for simplicity – We’ll add those that are most relevant to Color Theory and Pigment Science here for you!
Mastering Color Theory: The Foundation of Permanent Makeup Artistry
